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Thread: Changbang base camp & kanari khal

  1. #1

    Changbang base camp & kanari khal

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    Life is so small, & everyone needs to enjoy each of the moment. Really two years without trekking are so quickly passed away that I couldn’t realized. Thanks to my friends who emphasized me to capture another best time of my life. Now it is at Changbang Base Camp, Garhwal, Uttarakhand.
    This place is very new to me, I even didn’t know how the weather, the Himalaya look like in this region. I felt so nervous & also excited. First of all it requires 14 days of leave from home to home. I am in private sector, so it cause a little bit of problem to manage those leaves. But I decided & that couldn’t be changed even it was the order come from mahatma.

    Day 1 : 28/09/2012 : We are the team of three musketeers Shuvankar, Chinmoy & Me Sourav. Our train time is at 1:10 pm Upasana Express from Howrah. Father of Shuvankar & also my father came to help us to carry the rations, tents & other required luggage. We also make a club flag to open at the base camp. Oh, I forgot to tell that I joined a newly opened mountaineers’ club at Chinsura from where I learned few techniques for mountaineering. So, this trek is so full of excitement. The train starts at the right time. We got company of Bengali couples at our compartment.
    So, the times were easily passed away by gossiping, jokes, shearing foods & experiences.

    Day 2 : 29/09/2012 : We reach Haridwar at 4:00pm. I really feel good that Indian Railway keeps their words in some cases. I asked Shuvankar ,” are you going to gate with me, because I need some fresh air, because I am now in Haridwar, I feel so religious, so I don’t want to miss any chance to make me pabitra”. He smiles & tells me that he can go but for smoking only, he doen’t have any interest in such cases. I tell to Shuvankar that he might rest here, because I don’t want any kind of mess here. So I go alone, but I see a sadhubaba. I take a glance at him, he look at me just like a angry statue. His eyes are red, his skin covers with bibhuti. Really I was so afraid that I returned to my sit, because I hear from someone that they have the power of hypnotization. I tell my friends, in spite of being angry they start laughing. Seeing them the sadhubaba also smiles. What kind of invitation for the first comer.
    My first step on Haridwar Station, I feel so excited, I tell Chinmoy to wait at station, me & Shuvankar will go & find hotel to spend the night. And I found a hotel cost 300/- per day, the name was Hotel Bishnu. It was near of station. We put our luggage in room, Chinmoy go for taking bath & we go for collecting tickets from GMOU (Private Transport : Bus) for Joshimoth. The time of the bus is on 30th September, tomorrow at 4:00am.
    At 5:30 pm after collecting the tickets I call Chinmoy, to lock the room and come to road because we are now going to Har- Ki-Pouri to see the Sandha Ararti. It starts at 6:00pm daily. After coming Chinmoy we run to Har-Ki-Pouri, to gather a sit from where Sandhrati can be easily visible.

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    Really it was so good that I swear that I shall bring my parents here. Really awesome thought isn’t it.. <JAI GANGA MAIYA>.

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    After seeing Sandha Arati we went to a punjabi Dhaba & take lassi & Alur Tikia. We were so hungry that we took two plates of Alur Tikia & two glasses of Lassi for each one. But we forgot that we should have to try Dada Boudi restaurant for dinner, because my friend told me to try it because of it’s Bengali touch.
    We took our dinner at 9:00pm at “Dada Boudi” restaurant. Many people don’t know the address of original Dada Boudi Restaurant. Because in Haridwar each & every direction there is a existence of Dada Boudi restaurant. But the original is beside of Bhalogiri Sannas Ashram, near Bishnu Ghat.
    Yes, the food was too good & fill with Bengali Touch. Thanks to Surya Da.

    Day 3: 30th September,2012 : We wake up as early as possible, i.e. 3:00am.We packed and checked out from the hotel around 3:50am. But after reaching to bus stop we couldn’t find the bus, the passengers came & began to shout for the bus. At last after one hour the bus came & filled with the pilgrims within a minute who were going to Badrinath. They demanded to us to give them our sit, after quarrelling with us they accept their defeat. Eleven hours of journey to Joshimoth, it cannot be accepted to give them our sit & we stand up to our destination, it just impossible.
    After three hours of journey we took our breakfast-Aloo Paratha with Chatni & tea.

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    At 12:00 pm we took our lunch. From that place we enjoyed a good view of Sivalik Range.

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    In Garhwal the nature of the hills are completely different from the Eastern Himalayas. It is very steep, very close. It is really very old part of Himalayas.
    We reached at Joshimoth at about 5:00pm. The temperature is very comfortable, not so cold or not so warm. We took a double bedded room at hotel Atithi, near of Bus stand. They took 400/- for that room, but the room was too good, every kind facility was available there. Running hot & cold water, cable TV, telephone & what do you want. And most attractive part is the view from the balcony.
    Hotel Room at Joshimoth
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    Another guest house can be seen from the balcony of this Hotel
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    Joshimoth Municipality Office
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    We will rest here for extra one day for marketing & making permission. Because for that trek it requires Nandadevi Sanctuary Permission. It also requires the permission from IMF (Indian Mountaineers Foundation). My friend Shuvankar already made it before three months. It requires an identity proof, passport size photograph for each & the fill up form which is easily available in website & send a courier to the specified address i.e. also available in website. Now a day innerline permit is not required, but the nandadevi sanctuary permit is necessary. We had a known person who have an agency to provide the guide, porter or mule for any trekkers, because from joshimoth many trek routes are available. So many agencies are there, but we need not to worry because we had a known person Mahabir Rana.

    Day 4: 01/10/2012:Previous night we decided that we should go to Auli, because it is one of the beautiful place in Garhwal & it is not so far from Joshimoth. It gets a very beautiful look in Winter, skiing competition occurs here. It is one of the expensive hill station. So, we called Mahabir Rana, that if he can manage a cab that will take us to Auli at early morning. We will pay the right fare for that. He manages his own cab that comes at 6:30am, so we can see the sunrise as well. It is around eleven km from Joshimoth. The sky was so clean that Ice peaks from long ranges was visible from Auli. The path to Auli was so beautiful that we descend from the cab & took few snaps of the fresh sunlight.

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    We reach Auli after 45 minutes. The car stops near of a hotel of GMVN. We decide to go upper Auli near of Clifftop Hotel. It is a large alpine meadow. From lower Auli there is option to use the chair car to reach upper Auli, but this facility is available from 9:00am. It take 200/- for up & down. But I prefer to anyone can walk to upper Auli, because the sight scenes are so good, that camera will automatically starts to take a snap of it.

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    Entry of GMVN Hotel & Auli
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    Hotel of GMVN.

    The well-known trek route of Kuari Pass start from here. A long range of ice peaks of Garhwal can be seen from Auli, such as Nanda Devi, Hati Pahar, Ghori Pahar, Ghora Pahar, Kamet, some un known peak as well. I can’t remember the name but there is a mountaineers’ institute & skiing institute at Auli.

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    To be Continued.......
    Last edited by treksourav; 23rd December 2012 at 10:58 AM.

  2. #2
    After taking some snaps I tell Shuvankar,”We are here Auli, we can see the Clifftop Hotel, we can go there & ask the rate per night”. I need some courage, because we are not so rich to afford that price, but we can ask them about their available facilities, why they are so famous & expensive.
    We went there & get the all information that how to book, the available facilities, rate etc. Really it is so expensive. But I wish that I shall come here onetime in my life.
    Clifftop Hotel
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    Boundary around this palace
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    Lower Auli from Clifftop Hotel
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    A view of Nandadevi from the watchtower
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    Flag near of the hotel......Really this location is absolutely mind blowing.
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    A foreigner from France treks to Kuari Pass, Very soon he reaches Gudson Bugial......
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    You can see this kind flower a whole in your way to Garhwal Himalaya.
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    Hati Pahar....
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    We come out from the hotel, the time is 9:00am. The chair car already starts their work. We should experience this ride. We go to the ticket counter & take the tickets for three people, let’s roll.

    Chair Car
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    Chair Car station
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    Uuuuuuuu…………..what a wonderful view. I feel a bird in me& I am flying man. Large range of Himalayas, many birds specially Badri Crow makes our ride more beautiful.

    It took ten to fifteen minute to reach the lower Auli. Now it’s time for breakfast. We took omelet, breads, tea. Really Auli is good place to enjoy.

    Day 5 : 2nd October 2012 : Today our trek will start. We will go to Jumma by car, Mahabir will arrange this. From there our trek will start. Today our destination is Ruing Village.
    We packed our luggage & take it the jeep, one thing we need to take that is Kerosene. In joshimoth it is very difficult to buy, but Mahabir arrange this from few guys who came from Kamet Expedition. We took 12 liters of Kerosene, Rs 50/- per litre.
    From Joshimoth to Jumma it is 50 km. We did our breakfast at Tapavan. The regular dish i.e. Aloo Paratha & Sabji. That day is Mahatma Ghandhi’s Birthday.

    Way to Tapavan
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    Weather is too good that I can't imagine...I think Himalaya is happy that we are here.
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    Man is busy making the paratha for us.
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    Nilkantha at a glance
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    We reached at Jumma at 10:00 am.

    Way to Jumma.
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    A little view of Rishi Pahar.
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    The Shepherd is busy to guide his sheep...
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    Our guide, mules, mule man will come here after one hour, so it’s time to wait until they come from Garpok village.

    We are the three musketeers at Garpok...
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    From left- Shuvankar, Chinmoy, Me (Sourav).

  3. #3
    They come around 12:00pm. They carry two mule. They mean our guide Prasant & the mule man Bhagat. Today we have to cover around 3 km. So, they don’t show any hurry. Bhagat put the luggage over the mules. I thought that task is not so tough, but my idea was wrong. It requires the balance at the two sides of the mule or mule face problem at the time of walking.
    Mahabir says good bye & wish our success for the trek. Bhagat & Prasant started before us. They told that we need not to think about the path, because today’s path is not so tough, we can easily make it without hesitation.

    We the whole team
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    From Left - Me(Sourav), Chinmoy, Shuvankar, Car Driver, Prasant, Bhagat, Mahabir Rana

    First we cross the bridge over the DhouliGanga River. We are full of energy, that we think if we can reach to Dronagiri today, then we can get extra day in our hand. But Guide tells us that the distance of Dronagiri is quite enough, we can’t make it today.

    Shuvankar on the Bridge
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    Shuvankar with his Rucksack
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    Way to Ruing Village
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    Dhouliganga River
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    The nature welcomes us....
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    On the way I was surprised that the motorable route can see all the way up to Dronagiri Village...
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    To reach Ruing Village we took four hours. The path was good for walking. The scenic beauty was too good. One side it was Dhouli Ganga, on the other side hills. After reaching to Ruing Village the children of the village came towards us for chocolate. I think they are so happy after getting us.

    At the doorway of the Ruing Village
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    Prasant pitches our tent & kitchen tent at the open ground from where a ice peak Kunti Vanar & many unknown peak can be seen. They made rice, aloo Bhaji & dal as lunch. After finshing the lunch we render around the village & busy to take snaps of the village. The population of the village is around fourty.

    Prasant pitches our tent & kitchen tent........
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    Kunti Vanar Peak
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    Welcoming flowers.....
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    It seems that the flowers are smiling....isn't it.
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    Our mule is busy to take his lunch
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    We come back to our tent at 5:00pm & gossip with each other, Bhagat also join us. When two hours has passed we can’t count that. It was chilling outside, but we didn’t miss to see the sky. It was too clear & full of stars. The rays of the moon fall on the ice peaks & make it beautiful, that I thought someone spread the silver over the peaks.
    We starred at the sky, at this time Suvankar shouted & say that we are not alone in this area, there is someone behind the bush & it is not the human. It is a wolf. My god, what should we do now, Bhagat takes the fire & searching the places. After sometime he comes back & tells that there is possibility of it’s existence. So, we should be careful.

    Last edited by treksourav; 1st January 2013 at 08:29 PM.

  4. #4
    Day 6 : 3rd October 2012 (Dronagiri Village) : I woke up early in the morning before anyone else. Because I was worried about the wolf that I saw last night. In fact Prasant went home for his some work & told that he will return tomorrow. By the way the night was passed pleasantly. But today the sky is not good, there is some cloud in the sky. Shuvankar becomes worried for that.
    I walk around with my camera. After walking a while I meet some tourist, after introduced with each other I come to know that they also Bengali like us. But unfortunately they are much older than us. One of them are 50 years old, other two are 45 years. They are very glad after getting such Bengali like us in this remote region.I tell them that we are three friends in group and we pitch tent the open ground near of that village, if they come there it will be grateful to us. This guy took shelter in the Gram Panchayet building where the works of the three villages name Ruing Village, Garpok, Dronagiri take place.
    I come back to our tent, find that Prasant has already come & making some noodles as breakfast. The time was 7:00am. He tells me that we should start early because the weather is not good today. So we pack as early as we can. We give the extra luggage to Prasant, so we can lose the weight of our ruck sack.

    Me with my Ruck Sack
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    Today we will walk approximately 9 km & our destination is Dronagiri Village. We start around 8:00am. The other guys are already start their trek before us. First we walked through the wood, then the heights are gradually decreased along with altitude. You are able to see different kind of flowers & birds. One of thing is very painful that is the wind. The freezing wind makes me sicker, but the eye catching views sooth my mind & this gives me a task, to take the photograph of it.

    Path in the woods....
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    I started to ignore the wind, that makes me pay....I forced to take out the Jacket in spite of sweating...
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    The path was just like that, I really enjoyed it.
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    After waling 4 km we come to a landslide zone, it is too dangerous zone that guide are telling to cross that area as fast as we can. We tried but it was very difficult to run from that area, firstly we were tired, the path was not so good. But we crossed that area very fluently.

    First view of land slide zone.
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    Stones keep falling form the hill....
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    Chinmoy takes some spite of danger...
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    Bhagat tells us that he runs to the camp site before us that he can make coffee &bring to us. We give the permission to him. Actually the village can see from that landslide zone, we think that this place is very near, but it is just a decoy. It is not so near that we think. Now the altitude again gets increased. We are now passing by a waterfall. Chinmoy faces few problem with his Ruck sack. So, he slows his speed gradually. But Bhagat comes & makes us happy with a sip of hot coffee. Really at this time this coffee seems to be like “Amrita”.

    Here he friend Chinmoy comes..
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    The water fall lying a side of us...
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    Now the time is 3:00 pm. Now the path is good for walking, because it is made by man. But we cannot see the camp site still now. You are able to see the Kanari Khal from Dronagiri village. After one hour of walking we are able to see that Prasant shows his hand at a very long distance. He pitches our tent just beside of a school.

    First view of village Dronagiri..
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    Kanari Khal behind the village..
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    But the condition of the school is not so good that we stay there. Prasant & Bhagat select this place for cooking purpose. He again offers us a cup of coffee. But we see that the weather is getting worse, the clouds are coming & we can hear the sound of thunder.

    School at Dronagiri..
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    Our tent with the parbat Hati...
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    Really it is not time to stay outside, so we get into the tent. After few minutes the rain comes, this reminds me the Goecha La. First of all the temperature is very low & the rain makes the weather uncomfortable. The rain takes place for ten minutes. After the rain has stopped I get me out from the tent. I felt that was freezing outside. The water turns into ice around the tent & the peaks around the village. Kanari Khal covers with fresh snow over it. At this time the sky was clear & the rays of stars, moon made this view mind bowing. We expect that in next day we will not face any natural disaster. Because in mountain if it is raining, the probability of another rain gets lowered. We finish our dinner at 8:00 pm. But it is very difficult to sleep so soon. So, we decided to play cards. That helps us to pass little time.
    Last edited by treksourav; 26th January 2013 at 03:33 PM.

  5. #5
    Day 7 : 4rd October 2012 (Langatoli) : I wake up early in the morning as usual. It was freezing cold outside. But one thing was satisfactory that the sky was clear.The first ray on Hati Parbat makes me relaxed. Today I am sitting in Kolkata, writing this experience, but still now I can see the look of Hati Parbat. I call my friend outside not to miss this chance.

    First sunlight on Hati Parbat...
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    With time it changes it takes this colour....
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    Today our destination is Langatoli. It is 4 km from Dronagiri Village. But one obstruction is a river, we have to cross this to reach there. But there is no bridge to cross this river. So, we need to depend on the rope & ourselves. Our guide tells me that he will cross us this river by using the mule. I remember that I was saying that it is very difficult to carry the solid guys over an innocent species. They laughed & told that solid & big like elephants.

    Our guide Prasant with his gentle smile....
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    Mules are busy to take their breakfast...
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    However, we start our trek at 9:00 am after taking aloo paratha & sabji as breakfast. This morning very good for trekking. At this time we meet a couple who come completing Changbang Base Camp. They are in so hurry, because they faced a huge snowfall there. They warned us about that. Suvankar becomes tensed and tells me about some steps need to take when you walk over snow.

    We left you behind village dronagiri.
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    Now I feel that I am so lucky person that I can see the ice peak from so close distance. The peaks are gradually appear with the progress to Langatoli. Many peaks like Dronagiri, Rishi, Kalanka, Garur, Hardeol & few unknown peak can see from here. If anyone comes here on April or March, they are able to see the Rhododendron here. Because this altitude is idle for the growth of Rhododendron. The altitude is 10000 or above. After crossing few small streams we come to our challenge. My god, we will cross this river, really this is a challenge.

    Crossing the first stream.....
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    The peaks are so close - Mount Dronagiri.
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    Reflection from Chinmoy...Looks like a devil becomes an angel....
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    My last photograph of today............
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    First we need to explain how the river looked like.You are able to see the glacier from where the river flows, it is full of current. The width is 20 ft approximately & freezing cold. Suvankar goes first. He throws rope to another bank. He ties himself with safety knot & connects it with a big stone. Prasant goes to the other bank first & take the grip of the rope. The first step of Suvankar in the river makes me afraid. Suvankar slips & put his feet in the pot hole. That’s why he lost his sleepers & his clothes are getting wet. By the way he crosses the river. Now it’s my turn. I take off my ruck sack, camera and tie myself with the rope. I put my feet in the river; I get shock for the freezing temperature. I lost my sense in my feet, but I have to cross the river at any cost. But I cannot keep balance because of it’s speed. Prasant helped me very much; otherwise I could not cross the river. Really that was my first life taking experience. After crossing the river I rub my feet to gain the sense again in feet & see Chinmoy that he also faces problem to cross the river. Bhagat helps him to cross it. I get my clothes otherwise it will cause for hypothermia. Our guides already pitch tent & make some tea for us. We reached Langatoli at 3:00 pm. The altitude is about 11000 ft. I see that the height of the tree gradually decreases with rise of altitude. Today we trekked very small distance but today we are so tired that I can’t explain. So, it’s better to sleep now.

    Sorry that I couldn't take the picture of our river crossing...because we were so exhausted.

    Last edited by treksourav; 26th January 2013 at 03:50 PM.

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